Autumn 1933
In the 1930s, bigger was better, with double-breasted suits, full-cut trousers, and tuxedos with tails setting the standard for how a gentleman should dress. Also: the dawn of shirtless sunbathing.
It began with the great Wall Street Crash of October 24, 1929. By 1931, eight million people were out of work in the United States. Less or no work meant little or no money to spend on clothing. The garment industry witnessed shrinking budgets, and going-out-of-business sales were prevalent.
During the early part of the decade, men’s suits were modified to create the image of a large torso. Shoulders were squared using wadding or shoulder pads and sleeves were tapered to the wrist. Peaked lapels framed the v-shaped chest and added additional breadth to the wide shoulders.
This period also say a rise in the popularity of the double-breasted suit, the precursor of the modern business suit. Masculine elegance demanded jackets with long, broad lapels, two, four, six or even eight buttons, square shoulders and vent less tails. Generous-cut, long trousers completed the look. These suits appeared in charcoal, steel or speckled gray, slate, navy and midnight blue.
Lovely dark fabrics were enhanced by herringbone and stippled vertical and diagonal stripes. In winter, brown cheviot was popular. In spring, accents of white, red or blue silk fibers were woven into soft wool. The striped suit became a standard element in a man’s wardrobe at this time. Single, double, chalk, wide and narrow stripes were all in demand.
Plaids of many various kinds became popular around this time as well. Glen plaid checks, originally known as Glen Urquhart checks from their Scottish origin, were one of the more stylish plaids. Glen plaid designs are sometimes referred to as “Prince of Wales” checks. Initially the design was woven in saxony wool and later was found in tweed, cheviot, plied and worsted cloth.
1934
1935
The rebounding economy demanded a redesign of the business suit, to signal the successful status of the man who wore it.
Other versions of this new suit included four instead of six buttons, lapels sloping down to the bottom buttons, and a longer hem. This version was known as the Windsor double-breasted (D.B.) and the Kent double-breasted (D.B.), named after the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Kent respectively.
During this time, blazers became popular for summer wear. Blazers are descendants of the jackets worn by English university students on cricket, tennis and rowing teams during the late nineteenth century. The name may derive from the “blazing” colors the original jackets were made in, which distinguished the different sports teams. The American versions were popular in blue, bottle green, tobacco brown, cream and buff. Metallic buttons traditionally adorned the center front of the jackets, and they were worn with cotton or linen slacks and shorts.
1935
1939
July 1942
In the 1940s, war changes everything. The government restricts the use of wool, and single-breasted jackets and cuff- and pleat-free pants become the norm. Once the boys come home, big style roars back with wide lapels, spread collars, and roomy suits
1942
1942
1945
1949
October 1950
In the 1950s, conservatism and conformity rule, with trim tailoring and similar accessories (hat, pocket square, cigarette, and martini) for just about everyone. Downtime sees the occasional glimpses of flair (shantung jackets, madras prints, Hawaiian shirts).
From today I'll be educating about the history of fashion, or rather the evolution of Men's wear
stay tuned ...
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